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Updated: Dec 9, 2021

Naples and its wonderful Amalfi Coast! Naples is truly a dream destination that you must visit. Located 12 kilometers from the most dangerous volcano in the world, Naples is awaiting its destruction. But it has a powerful protector: San Gennaro, a martyr whose blood has strange powers...

"The strong scent of incense in the church. A large crowd waits, with clasped hands, for the fateful moment. The wait seems eternal.

I remember that in my childhood, my grandmother, as a good Neapolitan, used to force me to go to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta every Sunday, which you suddenly discover as you walk along the Via del Duomo. It has a marvellous chapel named after San Gennaro, the city's most idolised saint. It bears witness to the relationship of faith between the Neapolitans and the saint, which culminates in the three days of the year when the faithful flock to the chapel, anxiously awaiting the miracle of his blood.

That's also Naples: the sacred and the profane embrace, in an archaic ritual rooted in the city's Greek origins.

Parthenope was a mischievous siren who had the luxury of bathing in my sea, or rather, in the Bay of Naples. I remember the reproaches that San Gennaro would take home from the elderly women, the grandmothers, who would take it out on him when the miracle lasted too long or did not come true at all! They called him 'yellow face', but in truth he was golden.

As a child, I would look up dreamily at the carved and gilded wooden ceiling of the crypt; the wonderful decorations and stuccoes would leave me breathless! I hear the voices of the people arriving, on this cold December evening, the sound of their prayers. Everyone is hoping, everyone is waiting, everything will go well... and if it doesn't, San Gennaro will take care of it!"

As you can understand, Neapolitans are very attached to San Gennaro. The miracle of San Gennaro takes place 3 times a year on September 19, the Saturday before the first Sunday of May and December 16. In these anniversaries hundreds of Neapolitans or not flock the Dome of Naples. Would you like to join them?

By Lisa, author of the tour "Amalfi Coast. The art of Lieto Vivere".

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